Tutorial video: How to make an open style sterling silver ring

Tutorial video: How to make an open style sterling silver ring

This is part of our new series featuring some of the most popular projects from our DIY jewelry studios in Sausalito and Berkeley. In this project, Amy will take you step by step in making an adjustable open style ring from .925 sterling silver. 

Please subscribe to our YouTube channel so that you can see the entire series - we will be publishing all of our top making projects. 

https://www.youtube.com/@SilverworkStudios

You can buy raw materials for this project from us here. 

How to Make an Open Sterling Silver Gemstone Ring

A Step-by-Step Beginner Jewelry Tutorial

Hi again — I’m Amy, the owner of Silverworks Studios in Sausalito, California. We’re a DIY jewelry studio where we teach beginner soldering and metalwork, and over the years we’ve helped thousands of complete beginners make their very first jewelry piece.

We thought it would be fun to create a series highlighting some of our most popular studio projects, showing you all the steps, tools, and materials needed so you can follow along at home. Today’s project is one of our absolute favorites: an open sterling silver ring with a gemstone and decorative soldered accent.

This design is flexible, forgiving, and full of creative possibilities — perfect for beginners.

Why We Love This Ring Design

This ring is an open band, meaning it doesn’t need to be sized perfectly. You can:

  • Stretch it slightly

  • Overlap the ends

  • Leave the elements side by side

That flexibility makes it great for first-time jewelry makers. Plus, you can customize it endlessly with different stones, shapes, and decorative elements.

For today’s ring, we’re using:

  • A small gemstone set in a bezel cup on one side

  • A solderable decorative element (what I lovingly call a “little solderable bit”) on the other

All components are sterling silver.

All tools and materials are listed at the end of this post. 

Step 1: Measure & Cut the Band

Start by measuring your ring using a ring sizer.

  • If you plan to overlap the design, make the ring one full size larger than your normal size.

  • If you want the two ends to sit side by side, make it half a size smaller than your usual size.

Once measured, cut the band using flush cutters. Since this band is relatively thin, we use a flat file (instead of a Dremel) to soften the cut ends.

💡 Tip: This ring will be sliding on and off your finger, so take your time smoothing the edges. Comfort matters.

Step 2: Prepare for Soldering

This project uses half-round wire, which is flat on one side and rounded on the other. Place the wire rounded side downon your charcoal block — that flat surface is where we’ll solder the decorative pieces.

For this ring, we’re attaching:

  • A sterling silver flower to one end

  • A 4mm bezel cup (for the gemstone) to the other

We like using clay to hold everything in place during soldering. It keeps the pieces close together and gives you more control than a traditional third hand.

Remember: the metal pieces must be touching for solder to flow.

Step 3: Solder the Decorative Accent

Paint flux onto the band and decorative element, then place a small chip of easy solder at the connection point.

Start heating from a distance. Once the flux bubbles, move your flame closer. If the solder shifts, wait until it softens and gently move it back with your solder pick.

Circle the flame evenly until the solder flows and connects the pieces. Once soldered, quench the ring in water immediately before handling it, then place it in the pickle to clean the metal.

Step 4: Solder the Bezel Cup

Now it’s time to solder the bezel cup to the opposite end.

Place the bezel upside down on the charcoal block, flux both pieces, and use extra-easy solder this time. Extra-easy solder melts at a lower temperature, which helps prevent re-melting the piece you already soldered.

Because this bezel is small (just 4mm), work carefully. One of the biggest risks here is overheating and melting the bezel into a blob — so go slow and watch closely.

Once soldered, quench, inspect both connections, and return the ring to the pickle before polishing.

Step 5: Set the Stone

After polishing, it’s time to set the gemstone.

We use E6000 adhesive along with traditional bezel-setting techniques. Apply a very thin layer of glue to the inside of the bezel using a toothpick, then gently place the stone inside.

Use nylon pliers to press the stone down so it sits flush. If any glue squeezes out, simply roll it off.

Using a bezel pusher, gently push the silver bezel around the stone until it hugs it securely all the way around.

Step 6: Shape the Ring

Before shaping, you’ll see the ring in its flat form.

We use a plastic ring shaper and mandrel to gently curve the band without damaging the stone or bezel. This ring is not shaped into a full circle — just enough to create a comfortable open band.

Place the ring on the mandrel at your desired size and:

  • Press gently on the stone and accent

  • Use a plastic hammer on the decorative silver piece (not the stone)

  • Fine-tune with nylon pliers

You can adjust the overlap and orientation to match your personal style.

The Finished Ring

And that’s it — a beautifully finished open sterling silver gemstone ring, handmade by you.

This design is endlessly customizable, and we offer several variations on our website if you’re looking for inspiration.

Thank you so much for creating with me today. Be sure to subscribe so we can make more projects together.

See you soon,
Amy
Silverworks Studios ✨

Tools & Materials

A full list of tools (with links) is included below the video. The silver, stone, and components can also be purchased as a kit directly from our website, which makes this project even easier to get started.

You’ll be working with:

  • Sterling silver half-round wire

  • Ring sizer

  • Flush cutters

  • Flat file

  • Charcoal block

  • Flux

  • Easy and extra-easy silver solder

  • Torch

  • Solder pick and tweezers

  • Pickle pot

  • Polisher or tumbler

  • Bezel cup (4mm)

  • Small gemstone (we use green aventurine)

  • Decorative silver accent

  • Nylon pliers

  • Bezel pusher

  • Ring mandrel and plastic hammer


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